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St. John's Harbour
and Waterfront
Photo Courtesy Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
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As, the capital city of Newfoundland
— a province known for its extensive wildlife and booming fishing industry
— St. John's has
a rich heritage as one of North America's oldest cities and still maintains
much of its history today. Landmark buildings, streets and historic sites provide
much of the city's old-fashioned charm, but a modern edge still exists with
trendy eateries and pubs, and a vibrant nightlife scene.
Visitors have a choice between the old and the new. Several hotels feature
modern amenities, but quaint bed and breakfasts in historic homes offer traditional
appeal. The infamous harbour and waterfront features historic buildings and
of course, the Atlantic Ocean, which surrounds Newfoundland.
HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY
To this day, the origin of the name St. John's remains a mystery, though not
one without its theories. A 1519 Portuguese map by Pedro Rienel is the first
known record of the name, and it is believed Portuguese explorer Gaspar Corte-Real
bestowed the name Rio de San Johem sometime after his first visit to Newfoundland
in 1500. Some believe Corte-Real was visiting the harbour during his travels
when he saw the Waterford River and coined it St. John's River. Others believe
the name originated earlier when John Cabot discovered Newfoundland and Labrador
on June 24, 1497, which also marked the feast day of St. John the Baptist. Cabot's
discovery makes St. John's the oldest European settlement in North America.
On August 5, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert, a British explorer, officially claimed
Newfoundland for the British. Today, a plaque in honour of Gilbert, is located
on Water Street, where he originally placed the Royal Standard of Elizabeth
I.
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The Colonial Building
Photo Courtesy Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
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During the 16th century, the harbour and the fishing industry made St. John's
a successful commercial trading post, popular with such Europeans as the Basques,
French and Portuguese. This period was also significant for its establishment
as a base for the fishing industry, with warehouses and fish stores lining the
street on the northside of the harbour. A thoroughfare was constructed through
the waterways lining the hill to connect the businesses, which can still be
seen today as the famed Water
Street.
Several battles took place in the city over the next two centuries, as the
Basques, as well as the French, Dutch and English militaries, fought for control
of the fishery, which provided an imperative resource. The British were eventually
successful and regained control in the late 18th century.
During the Napoleonic Wars, around the turn of the19th century, the population
increased significantly as the fishing industry boomed and European immigrants,
most notably of Irish descent, appeared to take advantage of the good wages.
Three fires in the 1800s devastated the city, the most significant being the
Great Fire of 1892, which destroyed much of the eastside of the city, including
many homes and the Anglican Cathedral of St. John the Baptist, one of the city's
most historic buildings. Each time, St. John's slowly rebuilt and restored much
of what was lost.
The city's first municipal government was established in 1888, and in 1921,
the City of St. John's Act was passed, which established and recognized city
status.
St. John's is located on the southeastern tip of the island and is the easternmost
city in North America. It is also closer to Europe than any other North American
city. This is the main reason Captain John Alcock and Lt. Arthur Brown chose
it as the place to begin the first nonstop trans-Atlantic flight to Clifden,
Ireland in 1919.
CLIMATE
| |
|
Month |
Avg.
Daily Temperature |
Average
Precip. |
|
Min |
Max |
| Jan
|
-9°C
(17°F) |
-1°C
(30°F) |
74
mm |
| Feb |
-9°C
(15°F) |
-2°C
(29°F) |
61
mm |
| Mar
|
-6°C
(21°F) |
1°C
(34°F) |
77
mm |
| Apr |
-2°C
(28°F) |
5°C
(41°F) |
94
mm |
| May
|
2°C
(35°F) |
11°C
(51°F) |
94
mm |
| Jun
|
6°C
(43°F) |
16°C
(61°F) |
101
mm |
| Jul |
11°C
(51°F) |
20°C
(69°F) |
89
mm |
|
Aug |
11°C
(52°F) |
20°C
(68°F) |
108
mm |
|
Sep |
8°C
(46°F) |
16°C
(61°F) |
131
mm |
|
Oct |
3°C
(38°F) |
11°C
(51°F) |
159
mm |
|
Nov |
-1°C
(31°F) |
6°C
(43°F) |
116
mm |
|
Dec |
-6°C
(22°F) |
1°C
(34°F) |
88 mm |
|
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Average
Daily Temperatures and Climate Data for St. John's |
St. John's has the third mildest winter season in Canada,
next to Vancouver and
Victoria, but also holds
the distinction of being the wettest, snowiest, windiest, cloudiest and foggiest
major city in the country. It beats out several other cities including Quebec
City and Regina
to take the top spot in all of the above listed categories, prompting Environment
Canada to label it "Canada's Weather Champion." It boasts the most days of freezing
rain and wet weather than any other city.
Winter temperatures average around -1º C (30º F), while summer days range from
warm to hot with average temperatures from 20º C (68º F). The summer and early
fall months in Newfoundland are typically less volatile than other months, and
are the most ideal time to visit St. John's. Travellers should still be prepared
for wet weather during these months and have an umbrella or raincoat on hand.
Visitors to St. John's in the late fall to early spring should be prepared
for any type of weather, including consistent rain and possibly snow. Though
temperatures do not fall far below freezing, warm layers of clothing and an
umbrella may be required, as the rainy weather can be chilly and the damp cold
may permeate light clothing.
TRANSPORTATION
In the early 20th century, St. John's used electric streetcars on major streets
including Water Street, Adelaide Street and Military Road. Buses replaced that
system in 1948. The public transportation system is now called the Metrobus,
which offers service all over the city, and operates with seasonal schedules.
Monthly and 10-ride passes are available for the bus system. A park 'n' ride
program is available from the west overflow lot at Bowring
Park and the Confederation
Building for events held at Mile
One Stadium.
Construction of the airport, now known as St.
John's International Airport Authority, began in 1941. In 1998, the
airport made the transition from a non-profit government organization to a privately
owned business. The airport provides service with nationally and internationally
recognized airlines, both commercial, as well as cargo, courier and helicopter
services.
The Trans Canada Highway runs east to west across Newfoundland, and directly
through St. John's. Coastal ferries are available, most notably between North
Sydney, Nova Scotia
and Port aux Basques,
Newfoundland. The ferry trip usually takes six hours, and a trans-island bus
service is available. Ferry service between North Sydney and Argentia,
Newfoundland — about 131 km (81 mi) from St. John's — is available
seasonally, during the summer into the early fall. The trip takes 12 to 14 hours,
however, these ferries often provide accommodations and services including cabins,
meals and entertainment.
Several major car
rental companies are conveniently located at the airport and offer visitors
the opportunity to explore the city at their own pace. Taxi services are also
available at the airport and in the city.
TOURS & ACTIVITIES
Tours
St. John's proximity to the Atlantic Ocean provides a plethora of
opportunities for boat
tours, which include whale
and bird
watching. The Newfoundland region is home to several families of birds, including
blacklegged kittiwakes, razorbills, and the puffin, the province's provincial
bird. Several other types of seabirds can often be spotted on tours, as over
a dozen different species inhabit this area. Newfoundland also boasts the largest
population of humpback whales, and some tour companies will even guarantee a
spotting. Several tour companies offer daily outings also featuring the scenic
icebergs, cliffs and caves that are a hallmark of the province.
Shuttle and motorcoach tours of major tourist attractions are available, as
well as guided walking
and hiking tours. A haunted
hike is featured from May to September This theatrical walking tour
moves through the historic streets of downtown St. John's, which are rumoured
to be haunted. Tours of the Avalon Peninsula are available by motorcoach, as
well as marine tours with nightly dinner and entertainment productions.
Golf Courses
Golfers will find themselves in paradise with courses
offering the best views St. John's has to offer. Bally
Haly Golf and Curling Club is a private course that overlooks the Atlantic
Ocean, and Admiral's
Green offers an unparalleled panoramic view of St. John's. The Clovelly
Golf Course features both a championship and a standard course, and
is surrounded by trees and duck ponds, offering the opportunity to spot wildlife
such as moose and birds. Icebergs and whales in the ocean can occasionally be
spotted while on the greens at Captain's
Hill, located on the Pippy Park Public Golf Course.
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The Royal St. John's
Regatta
Photo Courtesy Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
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The Royal St. John's
Regatta
The Royal
St. John's Regatta is held annually on the first Wednesday in August,
and is the longest running organized sporting event in North America. The first
official regatta was in 1825, however, records of organized racing events in
the city began in 1816. Held on the Quidi
Vidi Lake, the event draws upwards of 50,000 people for a day-long celebration
that also includes food, games and socializing, which prompted the label as
"the Largest Garden Party in the World." It is considered a municipal holiday,
and possibly the only one in Canada dependent on weather. If weather is inclement,
the regatta is rescheduled for the first suitable day after.
Screech-Ins
One of St. John's most beloved traditions is the Screech-In ceremony, the process
of making visitors honorary Newfoundlanders. The tradition was said to have
started with a commanding officer stationed in the province during the Second
World War. The officer was at a bar drinking with some locals one evening and
given a shot of Demurer rum from the West Indies. The rum was the province's
traditional drink at the time, as salt fish was regularly traded for liquor.
Imitating his host, the officer downed the rum in one gulp. Once he had regained
his ability to breathe properly, the only sound he could emit was a loud wail,
and thus the tradition was born.
Today, Screech-Ins are performed in pubs and must be conducted by a local Newfoundlander.
The visitor is required to stand in front of a crowd of witnesses, kiss a real
fish, preferably cod, on the lips, and hold a shot glass of rum high in the
air while repeating the words, "Long may your big jib draw." The shot is then
consumed and often times, the visitor will receive a certificate verifying their
new status. Several pubs in St. John's perform this tradition, some holding
weekly Screech-In ceremonies. This is also where the expression "kiss the
cod" originates.
ATTRACTIONS
Nightlife, Shops & Restaurants
Water
Street, one of the oldest commercial streets in North America, offers
some of old St. John's including historic buildings, combined with some of the
new with trendy restaurants
and shops. Indulge in one of the many seafood
restaurants found here, or enjoy the choice of a wide variety of cuisines including
Chinese,
Thai
or Indian.
Relax and unwind in one of the pubs, or explore one of the many antique or secondhand
shops that line the street.
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George Street
Photo Courtesy Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
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A highlight of nightlife in St. John's, George
Street is constructed of old-fashioned cobblestone streets; however,
the thumping music that emerges from the pubs and clubs lining the street makes
it evident that this is a hotspot for entertainment. English and Irish pubs,
dance clubs
and live
music lounges are all available to suit every mood.
Historic Sites
The Anglican
Cathedral of St. John the Baptist is located in downtown St. John's
and is a designated National Historic Site. Construction of the building began
in 1843 when the cornerstone was laid. However, it was in 1847 when the second
bishop of Newfoundland recruited architect George Gilbert Scott to build the
nave. Completed in 1850, this operated as the cathedral church until the transepts,
chancel and sanctuary were built 30 years later. The church suffered severe
damage in 1892, during St. John's great fire, and though rebuilding began the
following year, it was not completed until 1905.
Shaped to imitate a Latin cross, the Roman
Catholic Basilica of St. John the Baptist is located on Military Road,
and also a designated National Historic Site. Construction of the church began
in 1941 and lasted for nine years. The cathedral was consecrated in 1855, with
the community celebrating for several days. The basilica hosts a museum and
guided tours of the facility are available during summer months.
Signal
Hill National Historic Park is a designated National Historic Site,
with a reputation as one of St. John's most notorious landmarks. In the early
18th century, it was chosen as the location to inform the city of approaching
ships by using flag signals because of its ideal view of the harbour. In 1901,
Guglielmo Marco chose Signal Hill as his site to launch the first transatlantic
wireless signal. Today, Cabot Tower located on the hill, offers a panoramic
view of the city, and a display explains the history and significance of the
hill. Hiking trails are featured along the coastline and the harbour entrance.
During summer months, the Signal
Hill Tattoo performs a centuries-old reenactment of military drills
and musket firings.
Other historical sites in St. John's worth exploring are the Commissariat
House, once the dwelling of the Assistant Commissary General; the Confederation
Building, where the Legislative Assembly meets; Government
House, the current home of the Lieutenant Governor; the Colonial
Building, built in 1850, it was the Legislature building for the provincial
government until 1960; and the
Johnson GEO Centre, located on Signal Hill and featuring a history of
the geology of Newfoundland and Labrador.
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Hiking the East Coast
Trail
Photo Courtesy Newfoundland and Labrador Tourism
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East Coast Trail
The East
Coast Trail runs along the Avalon Peninsula, and offers the opportunity
for walking and hiking tours, both guided and self-guided. Lighthouses, abandoned
settlements and views of the Atlantic Ocean are only some of the sights one
can expect to behold. Signage and maps direct visitors to the trails' several
paths.
The Arts
In June 2005, three major arts institutions in the city opened under
one roof. The
Rooms is home to the Art Gallery of Newfoundland and Labrador, the Provincial
Archives and the Provincial Museum of Newfoundland and Labrador. The art gallery
features permanent collections, as well as travelling exhibits of local, national
and international art. The archive features over 427 m² (4600 ft²) of space
for a reference room and nearly double that amount of space for storage and
processing. The archives features history in the form of documents, photographs,
maps and film. The extensive collection includes records from prime ministers
and governors, as well as merchant and business records from the colony and
country. The museum is located on three floors and features exhibits, as well
as thousands of archaeological and historical artifacts, including objects from
the First World War. The museum offers perspective on the history of Newfoundland
and Labrador.
The Bowring
Park Amphitheatre provides entertainment during the spring, summer and
early autumn months. A wide variety of entertainment is featured at this 700-seat
facility, including concerts, Shakespeare performances and dancing. For those
in an adventurous mood, the Spirit
of Newfoundland Productions offers a dinner and a show with a team of
trained vocalists and actors, who perform musical theatre centring on Newfoundland
heritage. The group has created eleven original shows and performed nine Broadway
and off-Broadway productions.
